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Cotton

Cotton is a natural fibre produced by the cotton plant (genus Gossypium). The fibre grows around the seeds of the plant to protect them and is mostly composed of cellulose (90%). Cotton fibres can be white, brown, pink or green. Cotton has been used to make fabric since at least the 4th to 3rd millennium BC.

Fabrics made from natural fibres are preferable to cheaper, man-made ones such as polyester and nylon which shed micro and nanoplastics at increasing rates over their lifetime. Man-made fabrics may also emit volatile organic compounds (VOC), particularly those with waterproof, fire retardation and antimicrobial coatings or treatments. Also, these textiles are made from derivatives of petroleum (a non-renewable resource) and are not biodegradable. Buying clothes and other products that use these fabrics indirectly supports the fossil fuel industry and the destruction of the planet.

The unique benefits of natural fibres can include;

  • renewable
  • biodegradable
  • hypoallergenic
  • not producing poisonous gases when burnt
  • electrically conductive (do not produce static)

Possible drawbacks can include;

  • greater cost
  • greater weight
  • lower insulation potential
  • lower durability (dependent on quality)
  • higher water absorption
  • longer drying duration
  • higher likelihood of staining
  • a lower ignition temperature (235°C/420°C except wool at 570-600°C)

With all of that in mind, it's clear that man-made fabrics are probably a better choice for sports, water and adventure activities such as camping, kayaking and hiking and any other activity where good insulation, low weight, waterproofing and moisture wicking are high priorities. Outside of that, assuming you can afford it, cotton and other natural fibres are, dare I say it, a natural choice.

All of that said, modern manufacturing practices mean things are not always clear cut, read on for a little more nuance.

Oeko-Tex Certification

Despite it's natural origin, cotton can still be bad for you if it has been treated with harmful chemicals such as dyes or cleaning agents. To avoid this you should look for clothes, bedding, curtains and similar that are Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified. This standard tests textiles, thread, buttons and other attached accessories against a list of over 1000 harmful substances and certifies that they are not present at harmful levels.

The standard complies with;

It's worth noting that this standard can also apply and be used to certify man-made fabrics such as polyester, which is great but doesn't in any way reduce the fundamental toxicity of such man-made fabrics.

Organic Certification

If organic, sustainable, ecologically & socially sound textile production matters to you, then you should look for clothes, bedding and similar that are GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD (GOTS) certified. This standard uses third party testing and certification across a wide range of areas from prohibiting the use of synthetic pesticides to enforcing ethical labour practises. Products are traced through all processing stages from origin source material to finished product.

GOTS Is supported by the UK's Soil Association.

Forms

There are many forms and weaves of cotton, including;

  • Calico: a heavy, plain-weave fabric made from unbleached, and often not fully processed, cotton
  • Canvas: a durable plain-weave cotton fabric used for making sails, tents, marquees, backpacks, shelters, as a support for oil painting and for other items for which sturdiness is required
  • Denim: a sturdy twill weave cotton fabric
  • Egyptian: considered of very high quality beginning in the second half of the nineteenth century and ever since, it's unclear to me if that is still the case or if it's just marketing, often made from the gossypium barbadense species of cotton plant which has longer fibres (extra long staple) than other species, is considered stronger and softer than standard length cotton fibres and more expensive to grow
  • Fleece: similar to loopback (below) but the (usually interior) loops are brushed (and broken) which produces a softer feel and results in greater insulation and thus less breathability, typically used for hoodies and joggers
  • Lace: a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open web-like pattern, often made with cotton
  • Loopback: often known as French terry, smooth on one side (usually the exterior) with loosely woven thread loops on the other side (usually the interior), somewhat elastic, more durable than fleece, highly breathable, more expensive to produce, typically used for hoodies and joggers
  • Muslin: a plain-weave cotton fabric made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting
  • Percale: a closely woven plain-weave fabric often used for bed covers, made with many types of fibre including cotton
  • Pima: made from the gossypium barbadense species of cotton plant which has longer fibres (extra long staple) than other species, is considered stronger and softer than standard length cotton fibres and more expensive to grow, often associated with cotton grown in the southwestern United States but now grown across the globe
  • Plain Weave: a simple and basic textile weave (one over, one under) resulting in strong, durable and smooth fabrics
  • Sateen: a closely woven plain-weave fabric that is less durable than a plain weave, prone to fraying, made with spun yarn instead of filament yarn
  • Satin: a simple and basic textile weave (fifteen over, one under) resulting in a glossy, smooth or lustrous fabric (on one side, the other is dull)
  • Sea Island: made from the gossypium barbadense species of cotton plant which has longer fibres (extra long staple) than other species, is considered stronger and softer than standard length cotton fibres and more expensive to grow, was grown in islands off the coats of the southeastern United States, but no longer produced
  • Supima: American grown, made from the gossypium barbadense species of cotton plant which has longer fibres (extra long staple) than other species, is considered stronger and softer than standard length cotton fibres and more expensive to grow
  • Terrycloth: aka terry, terry cloth, terry towelling and towelling, has loosely woven thread loops on both sides (rather than just one like Loopback and French terry) which absorb large amounts of water, hence this fabric's use for towels and similar items
  • Twill: a simple and basic textile weave (one over, two under and other variations) resulting in a fabric with a diagonal pattern

Thread Counts & Weights

Thread count is a measurement of the number of both horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) threads in a square inch of fabric. You'd expect a higher thread count to result in a stronger, more durable and longer lasting fabric, however, it's not that clear cut. A higher thread count may require a tighter weave which requires thinner, extra long cotton fibres that are less durable than shorter ones. Very high thread counts usually make a fabric heavy and less breathable.

The typical thread count of different cotton based fabrics are;

  • Cotton: 200-300
  • Egyptian Cotton: 300-400
  • Linen: 80-140
  • Percale: 180-400
  • Sateen: 230-900 or more

Some fabrics are measured in grams per square metre (GSM) instead, such as;

  • Loopback;
    • light: 100-300 gsm
    • mid-weight: 350-500 gsm
    • heavy: 600-750 gsm
  • Terrycloth Towels;
    • light: 100-300 gsm
    • mid-weight: 350-500 gsm
    • heavy: 600-800 gsm

Washing & Drying

Cotton fabrics should ideally be washed at 30°C to prevent shrinkage, avoid possible colour loss and also to minimise energy usage. Do not wash at temperatures higher than 40°C.

You should ideally air dry (perhaps with the help of a dehumidifier in cool or colder locations) although you can tumble drying if need be. Cotton fabrics are less likely to retain odours compared to man-made fabrics.

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Created: 2026-04-27

Last Updated: 2026-05-19